Aloo tikkis, vada pav: Karachi's new craze for 'pure Indian vegetarian dishes'

Karachi, Pakistan’s bustling industrial and financial hub, is now also the undisputed food capital for the city's gourmets. The latest culinary trend sweeping the metropolis is an appreciation for authentic Indian vegetarian dishes. Food lovers are savouring flavours like 'soyabean aloo biryani,’ crispy ‘aloo tikkis,’ tangy ‘vada pav,’ savory 'masala dosa,’ and the soft, spongy delight of ‘dhokla.’

For the millions who call Sindh's capital home, Karachi’s true allure lies in its diverse culinary landscape. From indulgent European and Italian delicacies to affordable Chinese fare and even a humble bun kabab, the city’s food scene caters to every taste and budget, making it a haven for all who love to eat.

In recent months, foodies have developed a taste for "pure vegetarian" dishes.

'Our Dishes Are Famous, We Witness A Lot Of Rush During Lunch Time'

Mahesh Kumar, owner of the small Maharaj Karamchand Vegetarian Foods Inn inside the Narayan compound at M. A. Jinnah Road, said that his business is flourishing as people are savouring the taste of vegetarian cuisine, famously known in Karachi as “pure vegetarian Indian dishes.”.

The Narayan compound, which was enjoyed by Hindus, Sikhs, and Christians before partition, apart from housing the restaurant, also has the centuries-old Swaminarayan Temple and a Gurdwara.

Once a haven for the compound's residents, the Maharaj Karamchand Inn has evolved into a bustling hub in the heart of old Karachi. It now caters to a diverse clientele, from weary lawyers seeking respite after long hours in court to curious visitors drawn by the inn’s rich history. The inn’s walls, steeped in stories of the past, now echo with the lively chatter of commerce, as it has become a favoured gathering spot in this vibrant commercial district.

“Our Soyabean Aloo Biryani, Aloo Tikkis, Paneer Karahi, and Mixed Vegetables are famous, and we witness a lot of rush during lunchtime with a lot of takeaways and deliveries as well,” Kumar was quoted as saying by news agency PTI in its report.

Kumar stated that his father started the restaurant in 1960. Highlighting the attraction of his restaurant, Kumar said that Muslim and non-Muslim foodies come here to savour the taste of homemade spices and the fresh vegetables and oil used in preparing the dishes.

Kumar acknowledges that they refrain from publicising their restaurant, considering that some conservative Muslims may still view it as taboo to consume food prepared by Hindus.

“We have enough clientele who are happy with our food and service but don’t like to promote it,” he added.

'We Have Regular Customers Who Love Our Food'

The trade of Indian dishes is not only restricted to Hindu-run vegetarian restaurants, but entrepreneurs Hindu, Christian, and Muslim women have also opened up food stalls specialising in authentic Indian vegetarian dishes, including ‘pav bhaji’, ‘vada pav','masala dosa', and ‘dhokla’.

Kavita, who started a food stall in the Cantt area on a side street eight months ago, sells Indian vegetarian dishes and can barely keep up with the long queue at her stall.

“What is surprising for us is that apart from walk-in customers, we have developed a clientele of regular customers who love our food,” she was quoted as saying by PTI in its report.

Kavita's sister-in-law, Chandrika Dixit, brother Jeetandra, and her mother Nomita manage three stalls next to each other, with the fourth stall, which specialises in ‘dhoklas’, ‘aam panna', and ‘dal samosas’, is being run by a Christian woman, Mary Richards.

“We all live in the same compound close by, and after hearing how people have taken to Indian vegetarian dishes, we have decided to try our luck. We make these dishes regularly at home,” Mary said.

Muslim Sisters On Running Food Stalls Selling Indian Dishes

On the other side of the city, two sisters, Mahreen and Lubna, also run a food stall selling Indian vegetarian dishes on a famous food street in the populous Hussainabad area. “We are unique in the sense that we sell Indian vegetarian food surrounded by restaurants and stalls selling traditional Pakistani meat dishes,” chuckles Lubna.

The two sisters learnt to cook ‘masala dosa’, ‘vada pav','vegetarian rice', and ‘pav bhaji’ from their elders, who migrated from India after partition in 1947.

With hands making the dishes, the two sisters talk at length with the customers waiting for their order. “People are now eating these dishes because they are not expensive, tasty, and quick to prepare,” Mahreen said.

(With inputs from PTI)