Levi Strauss revenue jumps again, with DTC making up more than half of sales for the first time

Levi Strauss saw another quarter of strong sales, helped in part by higher prices, and direct-to-consumer sales made up more than half of its overall revenue — a milestone for a company that has long relied on wholesalers.

The denim maker's revenue grew by 14% while DTC sales through Levi's own stores and website jumped 16%, bringing total DTC sales to 52% of overall revenue.

In an interview with CNBC, CEO Michelle Gass said she expects DTC revenue to make up more than half of overall sales for the duration of the year, even as its more traditional wholesale channel continues to grow.

The growth is not from increased sales volume alone: Levi is benefiting from higher prices and positive foreign exchange headwinds. Finance chief Harmit Singh, who announced plans to retire on Tuesday, said about half of Levi's growth is related to recent price increases and half is tied to actual units sold.

Given its first-quarter beat, Levi raised its guidance. It's now expecting full-year adjusted earnings per share to be between $1.42 and $1.48, shy of expectations of $1.47 per share on the low end, according to LSEG.

It's expecting sales to rise between 5.5% and 6.5%, largely ahead of estimates of 5.6%, according to LSEG. 

Here's how the apparel maker did in its first fiscal quarter compared with what Wall Street was anticipating, based on a survey of analysts by LSEG:

The company's reported net income for the three-month period that ended March 1 was $175.8 million, or 45 cents per share, compared with $135 million, or 34 cents per share, a year earlier. 

Sales rose to $1.74 billion, up about 14% from $1.53 billion a year earlier. 

Levi's DTC-first strategy comes with bigger margins but also higher costs in the short term as it changes its distribution system, which has weighed on earnings. However, Singh said its sales are becoming more profitable as DTC scales.

He also noted that Levi's guidance could rise later in the year. Currently, it's assuming a 20% global tariff, though President Donald Trump has for now set a 10% duty on U.S. imports after the Supreme Court rolled back so-called reciprocal tariffs earlier this year. If that 10% tariff remains in effect, it could boost full-year earnings by $35 million, or 7 cents per share. The company could also be refunded as much as $80 million after the Supreme Court struck down Trump's previous global tariff policy, Singh said.

While that could boost earnings, Levi could face weaker sales in the coming months as consumers digest higher gas prices and consider pulling back on nice-to-haves like new clothes. Gass told CNBC she has not seen a pullback in spending so far, and the business is segmented in a way that it's reaching a wide array of consumer demographics.

For example, Levi's value brand Signature saw sales rise 16% during the quarter and its middle market Red Cap was up 9%, while its premium line Blue Tab is also growing, said Gass.

"We talked about over the last couple years, we made big, bold moves like selling Dockers and other brands and businesses. Now we're really focused on segmentation around the Levi's umbrella," said Gass. "We feel like we're really covered to serve the consumer across really every demographic and psychographic cohort and I think the other piece is, when we think about our business globally, 60% of our business is outside the U.S., which also gives us some really nice diversification. So we're watching it closely, but overall, we're feeling good about the consumer."